Esquites is Mexican street corn served in a cup instead of on the cob. You char sweet corn kernels hard in a hot pan or on the grill, then dress them warm with mayonnaise, lime, salt, chili powder, and crumbled cotija cheese, with chopped epazote or cilantro stirred through. It is elote taken off the husk and made into a spoonable salad, and it comes together in about twenty minutes.
The dish is genuinely old. The word comes from the Nahuatl izquitl, from roots meaning to roast and young corn, and roasted-then-simmered fresh corn seasoned with chili and salt was eaten in central Mexico long before the Spanish arrived. Lime, mayonnaise, and cotija came later. What has never changed is the fresh milky corn and the hard heat under it.
The Technique: Char, Do Not Steam
The whole character of esquites is the browning on the kernels. That means a dry, very hot surface and patience: spread the corn in a single layer, leave it alone until it picks up dark spots, then toss and repeat. If you crowd the pan the corn releases water, drops the temperature, and steams to a pale, sweet mush instead of taking on that toasted, almost popcorn edge. Cast iron or carbon steel over high heat, or an outdoor grill, both do the job. A nonstick pan will not get hot enough.
Fresh corn in season is best, cut straight off the cob. Frozen corn works well the rest of the year if you thaw it and pat it very dry first. A medium ear of sweet corn carries roughly 90 calories, around 3 grams of protein and 2 grams of fiber, plus folate, vitamin C, and potassium, per cooperative extension nutrition data, so a cup of esquites is a reasonable amount of food, not just a garnish.
Esquites
Serves 4 as a side. Prep 10 minutes, cook 12 minutes, total about 22 minutes.
Ingredients
- 4 cups sweet corn kernels, from about 5 ears, or thawed and dried frozen corn
- 2 tablespoons neutral oil or butter
- 1/4 cup mayonnaise
- 1/4 cup Mexican crema or sour cream
- 1/2 cup cotija cheese, crumbled, plus more to finish
- 1 to 2 limes, juiced, about 2 tablespoons
- 1/2 teaspoon chili powder or Tajín, plus more to finish
- 1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
- 2 tablespoons chopped fresh epazote or cilantro
- 1 clove garlic, grated
- Salt to taste
- Sliced jalapeño or a pinch of cayenne, optional
Method
- Heat the oil in a large cast iron or carbon steel skillet over high heat until it shimmers.
- Add the corn in a single layer. Let it sit undisturbed for 3 to 4 minutes until the underside is charred in spots. Toss, spread it out again, and repeat once or twice until much of the corn is browned. Total 8 to 12 minutes.
- Scrape the corn into a bowl and let it cool for 5 minutes so the dressing does not slide off.
- Add the mayonnaise, crema, cotija, lime juice, chili powder, cumin, epazote or cilantro, and garlic. Stir to coat.
- Taste and adjust with salt and more lime. It should be tangy, a little rich, and clearly spiced.
- Serve warm or at room temperature in cups or bowls, topped with more cotija and a dusting of chili powder.
Nutrition (per serving, estimated)
Estimated by calculation for one of four servings, not lab verified.
| Calories | Protein | Carbohydrate | Fat | Fiber | Sodium |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 290 | 8 g | 30 g | 17 g | 4 g | 430 mg |
Tips and Variations
- Grill it: char whole husked ears over direct heat, then cut off the kernels. This is the most traditional route.
- Lighter: cut the mayonnaise to 2 tablespoons and lean on the crema and lime.
- No cotija: feta is the closest easy substitute. Use a little less since it is saltier and moister.
- Make it a meal: fold in black beans and diced avocado, or spoon it over grilled chicken or fish.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between elote and esquites?
Elote is the whole ear of corn on a stick or in the husk, slathered with the same dressing and eaten by hand. Esquites is the kernels cut off and served in a cup with a spoon. Same flavors, different format.
Can I use canned corn?
You can, but drain and dry it very well and expect a softer result. It will not char the way fresh or frozen corn does because canned corn is already fully cooked and holds a lot of water.
What is cotija cheese?
Cotija is a dry, salty, crumbly cow's milk cheese from Mexico, often compared to a mild feta or a very dry Parmesan. It does not melt, which is why it works crumbled over warm corn.
What does epazote taste like and can I skip it?
Epazote is a pungent Mexican herb with a resinous, slightly citrusy edge. It is traditional but hard to find fresh outside Mexican markets. Cilantro is the usual stand in and the dish is still very good with it.
Can I make esquites ahead?
Char the corn up to a day ahead and refrigerate it plain. Dress it within an hour or two of serving so the dairy stays fresh and the corn keeps some texture.
Tools for the Job
Esquites lives or dies on how hot your pan gets. A heavy skillet or a grill is the requirement.
- Signature Skillet Collection for the hard char indoors
- Stainless Tabletop Propane Gas Grill for the traditional grilled version
- 13-Inch Damascus Chef Knife for cutting kernels off the cob
- Pots, Pans and Cookware
More Technique Guides
These publish together as a set. The full recipe index lists everything on the site in one place.
Who Is Writing This
I am Chef Alan. I have spent 35 years in professional kitchens, I have formal culinary training in New Hampshire, and I have been honored as a 6-time 4-Diamond chef. More about me here. If a step did not make sense, or the recipe missed something you needed, get in touch and I will fix it.
Thank you for cooking this one with us. From all of us at Wine Drop Cookery.
Sweet corn nutrition figures from North Carolina Cooperative Extension. Etymology and pre-Hispanic history of esquites from the reference entry on esquites.