White Wine Turkey Brine vs Dry Brine: Which One Earns a Place on Your Bird

Wet brine in a Dutch oven with a turkey, lemon slices, thyme and a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc beside a turkey dry brined with coarse salt and herbs on a wire rack

A white wine turkey brine adds little to the meat that a plain salt brine does not, so I recommend dry brining the bird and saving the wine for the pan and the gravy.

That is the short answer. Two sources agree the salt is what gets into the meat: Mental Floss quotes a University of Minnesota animal science professor saying salt and sugar are water soluble while fat-soluble flavors such as pepper are lost, and the Seattle Times quotes a Serious Eats line that flavor molecules "unlike salt, are for the most part too big to penetrate the cell membranes of a piece of meat." One source disagrees, Taste of Home, which says alcohol can help carry a brine's flavors in, so the page leans with the two that explain a mechanism. The long answer is a decision guide: what each method does, what the people who study it say, what wine actually adds, and the quantities per pound so the numbers scale to whatever bird you bought.

A note on what this page is. Wine Drop Cookery has not run a side-by-side turkey test, and nothing below should read as a result we measured. This is a sourced comparison, with the sources named, and where I am giving you my own judgment I say so.

The Three Methods, Side by Side

Dry brine Plain wet brine White wine wet brine
What you do Rub salt on the bird, rest it uncovered in the fridge Submerge the bird in salted water Submerge the bird in salted water that is partly wine
Time (16 to 20 lb bird) 24 to 48 hours (Clemson) 12 to 24 hours, then 12 to 24 hours drying in the fridge (Clemson) Same as a plain wet brine, lean to the short end (see below)
Fridge space A pan or tray A container big enough for the bird and the liquid Same as wet brine
Skin Browner and crisper (Clemson) Can come out slightly less brown because of the extra water in the skin (Clemson) Same as wet brine
Drippings Concentrated, usable Can run too salty for gravy (Mental Floss, quoting SUNY Cobleskill's David Yanisko) Same as wet brine

What Brining Does, and Where the Experts Disagree

Everyone agrees on the part that matters. Salt loosens some of the muscle proteins in the meat, and loosened proteins hold more water through cooking, which is why a brined bird eats juicier. The Exploratorium puts it plainly: salt breaks down some of the proteins that would otherwise squeeze moisture out as the meat cooks.

The mechanism is where the sources part ways, and I am not going to paper over that. The Exploratorium describes water moving into the muscle cells by osmosis. Gizmodo's write-up says osmosis is not what is going on and that it is protein denaturation. Mental Floss quotes Ryan Cox, an animal science professor at the University of Minnesota, describing salt moving in by diffusion at about an inch per week whether you dry brine or wet brine, and says a dry brine works largely because the juices the meat releases in the oven carry the salt back in. Pick whichever explanation you like, the practical result in all of them is the same: salt in, protein loosened, more moisture held.

Dry Brine, Wet Brine, or Wine Brine: What I Would Do

Coarse salt for a dry brine, salted water for a wet brine and a white wine brine with peppercorns, thyme and bay leaves

I recommend dry brining the bird. America's Test Kitchen's Thanksgiving guide lists the trade directly: salting needs less fridge space and dries out the skin so it crisps, while brining adds extra moisture that can keep skin from crisping, and salting is the slower of the two at 24 to 48 hours. Clemson's extension specialists say the same, and a writer in the Seattle Times (originally the Washington Post) reports that she favors dry brining for the crisp skin, moist meat and flavor. The sources disagree on juiciness: ATK's own science of brining page says brining keeps meat juicier and best protects white meat, and Mental Floss's two experts both stay with wet brining. The page leans dry because salt on the surface still loosens the proteins that hold water, and it fixes the skin, the fridge space and the salty drippings that come with a wet brine.

A wet brine is a sound choice if you have the fridge space. ATK's science of brining page reports that its test kitchen weighed brined 11-pound turkeys and found them 6 to 8 ounces heavier after roasting than unbrined ones, and says brining keeps the meat juicier, and the Mental Floss experts, Yanisko and Cox, both prefer wet brining. A white wine version is fine to make, with the expectation set in the next section: the wine is a subtle accent, not a flavor carrier.

Two reports worth knowing about. Yahoo Lifestyle carries an article by Breana Lai Killeen, a former test kitchen manager at EatingWell, who recommends dry brining. She describes a side-by-side in which the Food & Wine test kitchen roasted a wet-brined trussed turkey and a dry-brined spatchcocked turkey. In that side-by-side, which is described in her article and is not ours, the wet-brined bird's breast leaned dry even when pulled at 150°F, and the dry-brined bird rested uncovered in the fridge for about 36 hours before roasting. Take it as one article's report, not as proof. In the other corner, Mental Floss quotes both the Minnesota and SUNY experts saying they personally stay with wet brining. The experts are split, and the honest answer is that both methods work.

What the Wine Actually Does in a White Wine Turkey Brine

This is the question no recipe card answers, so here is what the sources I could open say, including where they disagree.

  • Salt does the structural work. The wine does not change that job.
  • Wine is acidic. Taste of Home's brining guide warns that acidic ingredients can break down proteins on the outside of the meat and leave a mushy texture, and advises shortening the brine time. Tasting Table's brining guide takes a milder view, saying acid such as citrus juice, apple cider or vinegar can brighten flavors and tenderize the meat, while also warning that brining too long can leave a bird overly salty and mushy or chewy, and giving 12 to 24 hours for a wet brine. The two sources disagree on whether acid is a risk or a benefit, so I recommend keeping a wine brine toward the short end of the 12 to 24 hour range, which satisfies both.
  • Does it carry flavor into the meat? The sources split. Taste of Home says alcohol can help carry a brine's flavors deeper into the meat. Ryan Cox, quoted in Mental Floss, says salt and sugar are water soluble and things like pepper are fat soluble so their taste is lost, and that the pros skip spices in the brine. The Seattle Times, quoting Serious Eats, backs Cox: flavor molecules are mostly too big to get in, so a brine "may taste flavorful, but your roast will not." I could not find a source that shows wine perfuming the meat, so I will not tell you it does. What I am confident of is that the aromatics you simmer into a brine are more reliably working on the surface and in the liquid than in the middle of the breast.
  • Sugar and salt are the only things both experts say reliably make it in. Mental Floss quotes both saying a little sugar can balance the flavor.

The honest summary: a white wine turkey brine is a flavor accent and a nice excuse to open a bottle, not a shortcut to a different bird. I recommend putting the wine in the roasting pan and the gravy, where you can taste it. Tasting Table says a deglazing liquid should carry some acidity rather than being plain broth, naming wine, and The Reluctant Gourmet says wine adds acidity and complexity while broth provides the savory base. The two sources do not disagree.

If you are wondering which white wine to put in a brine or a gravy, the short answer is a dry, unoaked white, and our guide to cooking wine vs regular wine goes into the choice in full.

Brine Quantities Per Pound of Turkey

What these quantities are for, in plain words: they make enough brine for the weight of the bird. They do not make servings. A bigger bird needs more brine, a smaller bird needs less, so the numbers are written per pound of turkey and scaled in the table. Use them as a working formula built from the sources named below, not as a lab-tested recipe.

Dry brine, per pound of turkey

  • 1 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt per pound
  • A commonly quoted ratio, and the one MasterClass's dry brine guide gives when you have no scale: 1 teaspoon of Diamond Crystal kosher salt per pound of turkey. Rub it over the whole bird, under the skin too, and refrigerate uncovered on a rack for 24 to 48 hours.
  • Clemson's extension guidance agrees on the time, 24 to 48 hours, and says to wipe off any remaining salt and pat the bird dry before roasting. Clemson's own dry brine is a sourced alternative: 1/4 cup kosher salt, 2 tablespoons sugar, and herbs, for a bird of any size.
  • Salt brand matters. Every salt volume on this page assumes Diamond Crystal. Morton kosher salt and table salt are much saltier by volume, which is why this page tells you to stay with Diamond Crystal. MasterClass's figure, in its words, is "about half a teaspoon if using table salt". For any other salt, weigh it or cut the volume substantially, and for the wet brine below do not swap salts by the spoon at all, because a Thanksgiving bird can be ruined that way.

White wine wet brine, per pound of turkey

Working formula, built from the sources named above:

  • Total liquid: about 1 1/2 cups per pound of turkey, enough to fully submerge the bird (Clemson's volumes, about 1 gallon for 12 to 14 lb and about 2 gallons for 16 to 20 lb, bracket this)
  • Dry white wine: 6 tablespoons per pound (a quarter of the liquid)
  • Cold water: 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons per pound (the other three quarters)
  • Kosher salt (Diamond Crystal): 1 1/2 tablespoons per pound, about 1 cup per gallon of total liquid. That strength matches Clemson's wet brine recipe (2 cups of kosher salt for about 2 gallons of brine, for a 16 to 20 lb bird) and Taste of Home's general brine (1/4 cup per quart). Stronger is not better: SUNY Cobleskill's David Yanisko, quoted in Mental Floss, found that a brine of 1 1/2 cups per gallon gave drippings too salty for gravy.
  • Brown or white sugar: 1 1/8 teaspoons per pound (one quarter the salt, the ratio in Clemson's wet brine recipe)

Dissolve the salt and sugar in the water, chill it fully, and only then add the cold wine. Submerge the thawed bird completely, and keep it in the refrigerator the whole time. Clemson says to use a brining bag or a non-corrosive, food-safe container. After brining, Taste of Home's guide says there is no need to rinse if you did not brine too long, so pat the bird dry. Clemson then adds a 12 to 24 hour uncovered rest in the fridge to dry the skin.

Worked amounts for common birds

Bird weight Dry brine salt (1 tsp per lb) Wet brine total liquid Dry white wine Cold water Kosher salt (Diamond Crystal) Sugar
12 lb 4 Tbsp 18 cups (4 1/2 qt) 4 1/2 cups 13 1/2 cups 1 1/8 cups 4 1/2 Tbsp
16 lb 5 1/3 Tbsp 24 cups (1 1/2 gal) 6 cups 18 cups 1 1/2 cups 6 Tbsp
20 lb 6 2/3 Tbsp 30 cups (1 7/8 gal) 7 1/2 cups 22 1/2 cups 1 7/8 cups 7 1/2 Tbsp
24 lb 8 Tbsp (1/2 cup) 36 cups (2 1/4 gal) 9 cups 27 cups 2 1/4 cups 9 Tbsp

The liquid you actually need is the amount that covers the bird in your container. If your container takes less or more, keep the same strength (the same salt per cup of liquid) and change the volume.

How the timing lines up

A frozen bird has to be fully thawed before it goes in a brine (Clemson). University of Georgia Extension guidance, in its holiday turkey publication, is about 24 hours in the refrigerator for every 4 to 5 pounds, with its chart giving 4 to 5 days for a bird of 16 to 20 lb. Worked out for the common sizes, that is roughly 2 1/2 to 3 days for 12 lb, 3 to 4 days for 16 lb, 4 to 5 days for 20 lb and 5 to 6 days for 24 lb, before you add the brine. A dry brine then adds 1 to 2 days, so a 16 lb frozen bird wants to come out of the freezer about 5 to 6 days before you roast it. Cold water thawing is faster (30 minutes per pound with the water changed every 30 minutes, per UGA) but needs you standing by.

Spatchcock as a Related Technique

Spatchcocked bird seasoned with herbs and salt on a wooden board with rosemary, thyme, garlic and shears

Spatchcocking, removing the backbone and flattening the bird, is what the dry-brined bird got in the side-by-side described in Killeen's article above, and I recommend it as a pairing with a dry brine. Saveur reports that spatchcocking lets heat reach every part of the bird more evenly and cooks it faster, and the National Turkey Federation says it helps the turkey cook more evenly and quickly and exposes all the skin at once, for crisp skin and juicy meat. The sources agree; neither one speaks to brining specifically, so the pairing rests on the dry brine's dried-out skin in the sources above. I am not giving a roasting time by weight here because I could not source one, and a thermometer is a better judge than a table anyway.

Cook It to Temperature, Not to Time

UGA Cooperative Extension's turkey publication says to set the oven to no lower than 325°F and to cook to a minimum internal temperature of 165°F (74°C), checking several locations: the wing joint, the innermost part of the thigh and wing, and the thickest part of the breast. Mental Floss's experts put it neatly: no brine saves an overcooked turkey.

Check that your thermometer reads true before the big day, with nothing more than a glass of ice water: Calibrate a Meat Thermometer to 32°F With Ice Water. If you need one, WDC stocks a Digital Instant-Read Meat Thermometer, Waterproof and a Dual-Probe Digital Meat Thermometer with Alarm that leaves a probe in the bird with the oven door shut. For the general rules on poultry, see chicken cooking essentials for safe, juicy results. For a smaller roast to practice the dry brine on, try the Herb Roasted Cornish Hen or the Rosemary Roasted Chicken and Potatoes.

White Wine Pan Gravy From the Drippings

This is where the wine does its best work, and it answers the salty drippings problem. If you wet brined, Mental Floss's Yanisko found drippings from a strongly brined bird (1 1/2 cups of salt per gallon) too salty to turn into gravy, so taste before you add anything, and use unsalted stock. If you dry brined, the drippings are concentrated and usable but still taste before you season.

The method is the one on our traditional gravy page: equal volumes of fat and flour, then eight times that volume in liquid. Here the liquid is part wine. For the wine-and-sauce lineage, see the Herb-Poached Chicken with White Wine Sauce and our guide to the five mother sauces.

White Wine and Sage Pan Gravy

Serves 4. Makes about 2 cups.

Ingredients

  • 1/4 cup (4 tablespoons) turkey fat skimmed from the pan drippings (top up with butter if short)
  • 1/4 cup (4 tablespoons) all-purpose flour
  • 1/2 cup dry white wine
  • 1 1/2 cups unsalted turkey or chicken stock, warm, plus the dark juices from the pan once the fat is skimmed off
  • 1 teaspoon fresh sage, finely chopped (or 1/2 teaspoon dried)
  • Kosher salt and black pepper, only after tasting

Method

  1. Once the bird is out of the roasting pan and resting, pour the drippings into a heatproof jug, let the fat rise, and skim off 1/4 cup of it. Keep the dark juices underneath.
  2. Warm the 1/4 cup fat in a saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the flour and cook, stirring, until it smells nutty and turns a light golden color, about 2 minutes.
  3. Pour in the wine, whisking so there are no lumps, and let it bubble for about 1 minute.
  4. Add the warm stock and the dark juices a little at a time, whisking, then bring to a simmer and cook until it coats the back of a spoon, about 5 to 8 minutes.
  5. Stir in the sage, taste, and season only if it needs it. Pass it through a strainer if you like it smooth.

Nutrition (estimate, per serving, about 1/2 cup, serves 4)

Per serving
Calories about 170
Total fat about 14 g
Carbohydrates about 7 g
Protein about 1.5 g
Sodium varies with the drippings of a brined bird, not estimated

These figures are estimates worked out from typical ingredient values, not lab-verified and not run through a nutrition database, and they do not credit any alcohol loss from simmering the wine.

Food Safety Notes

  • Thaw in the refrigerator (24 hours per 4 to 5 pounds) or in cold water (30 minutes per pound, water changed every 30 minutes), per UGA extension guidance.
  • Keep the bird in the refrigerator for the whole brine. Do not brine on the counter.
  • Use a brining bag or a non-corrosive, food-safe container (Clemson). Do not use a household trash bag.
  • Cook to 165°F (74°C) in the breast, thigh and wing.

Questions People Ask About a White Wine Turkey Brine

Does a white wine turkey brine make the turkey taste like wine? Not reliably through the meat. The sources split on whether alcohol carries flavor in, and the experts quoted in Mental Floss say only salt and sugar dependably make it in. If you want wine you can taste, use it in the pan and the gravy.

Which is better, dry brine or wet brine for turkey? Both work. Clemson's extension specialists note a dry brine gives browner, crisper skin and needs less fridge space but takes longer, and a wet brine is faster but needs a big container and can leave the skin less brown. I recommend the dry brine, for the reasons in the comparison above (America's Test Kitchen's salting versus brining guide and Clemson).

How long should I brine a turkey? Per Clemson, a 16 to 20 lb bird goes 12 to 24 hours in a wet brine plus 12 to 24 hours drying uncovered, or 24 to 48 hours in a dry brine. With wine in a wet brine, lean toward the short end because acid can soften the surface.

How much salt per pound for a dry brine? About 1 teaspoon of Diamond Crystal kosher salt per pound, a commonly quoted ratio, given by MasterClass's dry brine guide. Morton and table salt are much saltier by volume, so for any other salt, weigh it or cut the volume substantially.

Do I rinse the turkey after brining? Taste of Home's guide says you do not need to rinse if you did not brine too long. Pat the bird dry. After a dry brine, Clemson says to wipe off any remaining salt and pat dry.

Thank You

Thank you for reading, and for cooking with us this holiday. Whichever way you brine the bird, taste the gravy before you salt it, and enjoy the table. From all of us at Wine Drop Cookery

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