Deviled eggs are hard-cooked eggs, halved, the yolks mashed with mayonnaise and mustard and seasoning and piped back into the whites. They have been on American tables for a century and they are still one of the first things gone off any spread. The two things that separate a good one from a sad one are eggs that peel without tearing and a filling with no lumps, and both come down to technique rather than a special ingredient.
They are made ahead, they hold in the refrigerator for a day, and they cost almost nothing. Serve them cold, near the start.
Why It Works: Steaming and Sieving
Two small moves fix the two usual problems. Steam the eggs instead of boiling them: eggs cooked in steam peel far more cleanly than eggs dropped into boiling water, because the rapid heat sets the outer white and pulls it away from the membrane. And push the cooked yolks through a fine sieve before you add anything: a sieve breaks every lump, so the filling pipes out glass-smooth instead of pebbly. Older eggs also peel better than fresh ones, so this is the one time a slightly old dozen is an advantage.
The USDA calls egg dishes safe at 160 degrees Fahrenheit, and a hard-cooked egg, yolk and white fully firm, is well past that. Keep them refrigerated and do not let a plated tray sit out more than two hours.
Deviled Eggs
Serves 4, 12 halves. Prep 20 minutes, cook 12 minutes, cooling 15 minutes, total about 50 minutes.
Ingredients
- 6 large eggs, ideally a week or two old
- 3 tablespoons mayonnaise
- 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
- 1 teaspoon yellow mustard
- 1 teaspoon white wine vinegar or pickle brine
- 1/4 teaspoon salt
- Pinch of cayenne, plus more to finish
- Smoked paprika, snipped chives, or fried shallot, to finish
Method
- Bring an inch of water to a boil in a saucepan fitted with a steamer basket. Add the eggs, cover, and steam 12 minutes for a firm yolk with no green ring.
- Move the eggs straight to a bowl of ice water and leave them 15 minutes. Peel under a thin stream of running water, starting at the wide end where the air pocket is.
- Halve each egg lengthwise. Pop the yolks into a sieve set over a bowl and press them through with a spatula.
- Add the mayonnaise, both mustards, the vinegar, salt, and cayenne to the yolks. Stir until completely smooth. Taste and adjust. It should be tangy and well seasoned, since the bland whites will mute it.
- Spoon the filling into a piping bag or a zip-top bag with a corner cut off. Pipe it into the whites, mounded high.
- Finish with a dusting of smoked paprika or a pinch of cayenne and the chives. Refrigerate until serving, up to a day.
Nutrition (per serving, estimated)
Estimated by calculation for one of four servings, three halves, not lab verified.
| Calories | Protein | Carbohydrate | Fat | Fiber | Sodium |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 190 | 10 g | 1 g | 16 g | 0 g | 350 mg |
Tips and Variations
- Crab or bacon: fold a spoon of picked crab or crumbled crisp bacon into the finished filling.
- Curried: a quarter teaspoon of good curry powder bloomed in a little of the mayonnaise, with mango chutney to finish.
- Transport: carry the whites and the filling separately, in the bag, and pipe on arrival. Piped eggs slide around in a container.
- Even halves: wipe the knife between cuts and slice in one smooth stroke, not a sawing motion.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why do my eggs tear when I peel them?
Usually they are too fresh, or they were boiled rather than steamed, or they were not shocked in ice water. Use eggs at least a week old, steam them, and cool them fully before peeling under running water.
What causes the green ring around the yolk?
Overcooking. Iron in the yolk reacts with sulfur in the white and forms a gray-green layer. It is harmless but it looks bad and tastes slightly sulfurous. Twelve minutes of steaming and an immediate ice bath prevents it.
Do I really need to sieve the yolks?
For a smooth pipeable filling, yes. Mashing with a fork always leaves lumps that clog the piping tip and give a pebbly texture. The sieve takes thirty seconds and it is the difference.
How far ahead can I make deviled eggs?
Cook and peel the eggs up to two days ahead. Make the filling a day ahead. Pipe within a few hours of serving so the surface does not dry and crust.
Can I make deviled eggs without mayonnaise?
Yes. Greek yogurt, sour cream, or mashed avocado all stand in, though each shifts the flavor. A half-and-half mix of mayonnaise and yogurt is a good middle ground.
Tools for the Job
A steamer basket, a sieve, and a piping bag. None of it is special and all of it matters.
More Appetizers
See all appetizers, or start with these.
Who Is Writing This
I am Chef Alan. I have spent 35 years in professional kitchens, I have formal culinary training in New Hampshire, and I have been honored as a 6-time 4-Diamond chef. More about me here. If a step did not make sense, get in touch and I will fix it.
Thank you for cooking this one with us. From all of us at Wine Drop Cookery.
The USDA Food Safety and Inspection Service lists 160 degrees Fahrenheit as the safe internal temperature for egg dishes, and calls plain eggs done when yolk and white are firm, per the FSIS safe minimum internal temperature chart. A fully hard-cooked egg is well past that.